DESILICIOUS!

OFF I WENT IN SEARCH OF A GOOD GUJJU THALI

The thali.

By SUVARNA SHASTRI

My friend Kanta had some errands to run in Mississauga and I tagged along for company.

On our way back, we were passing through Etobicoke, when I spotted a bright sign. Gwalia.

I know Gwala means cowherd in Hindi and the word, in the hospitality industry, is associated with sweets! For instance, I hear “Brijwasi” in whichever city in India I may happen to be in and know I can step in for the most decadent rabri.

Seeing as how it was getting close to lunch anyway, getting Kanta to pull over for a look-see wasn’t a hard sell.

The restaurant was decorated with big bunches of balloons. Except for three young people at a table, it was also empty.

The lunch crowd trickled in while we were there, and a few people for take-out.

While the signage promises sweets and namkeens and the menu, true flavours of India, what had got both Kanta and I excited was this statement on their website: Gujarat’s Best Food Brand now in Toronto, Canada.

We both are big fans of Gujarati food and often bemoan the fact that there aren’t many options to indulge in and around the GTA. The young man at our table assured us that they could whip up a thali for us even though we were there a good half hour before the stated start time.

We opted for the executive thali ($11.99), dreaming of the special delicacies Gujarati thalis are famous for.

What arrived looked interesting all right, but was devoid of said Gujarati delicacies. No undhiyu, no patra, no farsan, or kadhi or chhaas...

Giant puffy bhature with the piping hot chhole.

What we got was rice, ghee slathered tandoori rotis (not bajra rotlis or phulkas), a very spicy dal, a paneer dish and an indeterminate vegetable curry. Nothing Gujarati about it, in fact. The sweet, a moist chamcham- like dessert, was delicious.

We also asked for alu tikki chaat, but were informed that the chaat chef was only going to get there in the evening, so no items on the chaat section of the menu were available.

I asked for mirchi pakoras and was informed that was also not available.

“Actually, it’s been removed from the menu, but that change has not been made on all the menus,” he explained apologetically.

I settled for a chhole bhature ($9.99) and enjoyed the giant puffy bhature with the piping hot chhole.

Seeing that they also offered imarti – possibly my absolute favourite Indian mithai – we ordered some.

He brought two ($3), one in each bowl, and hot, as promised. Imartis and jalebis may be of the same family, but there’s a distinct difference in their textures and this one was more jalebi-like.

They are still settling in, Kanta and I said to each other as we left, promising we’d be back to try the chaat. On an evening, this time!

 • Gwalia is located at 25 Woodbine Downs Blvd., unit 32, Etobicoke. Their phone number is 416-765-7337.