TIME-HONOURED TRADITIONS

This is less about heirloom tomatoes – which she absolutely loves – writes Sarah Owens, and more about the heirloom kitchen. Thus expect to find tips on fermenting, pickling and preserving. Even how to make your own vinegar! And delicious seasonal recipes using time-honoured techniques and nourishing traditions. These recipes are from Heirloom by Sarah Owens, Roost Books, $47.

SWEET POTATO PEANUT HUMMUS

1 medium sweet potato, roasted, peeled and chopped

1½ cups spicy boiled peanuts

2 tbsp fresh lime juice

2 tbsp smooth or chunky peanut butter

1½ tsp harissa or hot sauce or to taste

1 tsp ground cumin

¾ tsp sea salt or to taste

2 small cloves garlic

3 tbsp green peanut oil plus more as needed

Small handful of fresh cilantro leaves

For the garnish:

Drizzle of green peanut oil

Handful of fresh cilantro leaves

½ tsp nigella seeds

¼ tsp smoked paprika

1 tbsp crushed toasted peanuts

Combine the sweet potato, peanuts, lime juice, peanut butter, harissa, cumin and salt in a food processor. Grate the garlic into the bowl of the processor. Process on high speed until smooth.

With the motor running, drizzle in the oil through the hole in the lid until emulsified, adding a little more if needed for a smooth consistency.

Check for salt, then add a handful of cilantro leaves and pulse to combine.

Transfer to a serving dish, drizzle with oil, and decorate with the second handful of cilantro leaves, the nigella seeds, paprika and crushed peanuts.

TOK-SEL BUTTER BEANS

1 cup fresh flat-leaf parsley leaves

½ cup fresh cilantro leaves

5 scallions, white and green parts

¼ cup toasted pumpkin seeds

1½ tbsp clarified butter

2 cups shelled lima beans

1½ tbsp toasted sesame oil

½ tsp kosher salt or to taste

1½ limes

Mound the parsley, cilantro, scallions and pumpkin seeds on a cutting board. Using a large chef’s knife, chop until the ingredients are uniform.

Heat the clarified butter in a large heavy-bottomed skillet over medium-high heat until clear. Add the lima beans and cook for 2 to 3 mins. without stirring to give them some colour. Gently stir and continue cooking until the lima beans are tender and lightly browned all over, about 10 to 12 mins. Transfer to a serving bowl, add the sesame oil, the chopped herbs and pumpkin seeds and salt. Squeeze the juice of 1 lime over the lima beans and stir. Check for salt. Serve warm, or at room temperature with the remaining lime half cut into wedges alongside.

HIBISCUS POACHED QUINCE

7 cups water

2 cups sugar

1 stick cinnamon or 5 whole allspice berries

4 fresh, or 6 to 8 dried, and whole hibiscus sepals

1¼ lbs quince

Combine the water, sugar, cinnamon and hibiscus in a large pot. Bring to a simmer over medium-high heat, stirring until the sugar dissolves. Halve the quince and slip them into the hot syrup. Reduce the heat to low and simmer uncovered for 1 to 2 hours, until the quince is fork-tender. Turn off the heat to cool slightly and let the syrup thicken. Serve warm, at room temperature, or cold for a refreshing after-dinner indulgence.

SPICY BOILED PEANUTS

1 lb raw peanuts in their shells

1 stick cinnamon

3 whole star anise

1 fresh or dried chilli

2 or 3 plump cloves of garlic

3 tbsp sea salt

Place the peanuts in a bowl, cover with warm water by at least 2 inches, and leave to soak overnight.

Drain the peanuts, place them in a large saucepan, and add the cinnamon, star anise, chili, garlic, and salt. Add water to cover by at least 2 inches. Bring to a boil, then reduce the heat to low. If the peanuts float to the surface, place a stoneware plate into the pot to weigh them down. Cook with the lid on for 3 to 4 hours, until the shells have a soft texture and yield to the bite. Drain and serve.