KITCHEN TABLE

CHAAT TOPPERS!

Most people think of bhelpuri, pani puri and alu tikkis when they think of chaat, the mouthwatering street food of India. But Maneet Chauhan extends the definition to include treats from the kitchens, markets and railways of India and includes recipes for many unusual delights from the cuisines of the north, south, east and west.

ALOO CHAAT

Aloo Chaat. Image credit: Chaat by Maneet Chauhan and Jody Eddy.

3 tbsp ghee

2 large russet potatoes, boiled  whole, peeled while warm,  and cut into ½-inch cubes

½ tsp Kashmiri or other red chile powder

½ tsp ground toasted cumin

½ tsp chaat masala, plus more to taste

1 small red onion, finely chopped

¼ cup whole milk yoghurt

Kosher salt

2 tbsp green chutney

2 tbsp tamarind chutney

¼ cup sev, plus more if desired

Pomegranate seeds for serving

In a sauté pan, heat the ghee over medium heat until hot but not smoking. Add the potatoes and fry until golden brown and just starting to crisp up, 6 to 8 mins., turning frequently to ensure even colouring. Transfer the potatoes to a large bowl and add the chile powder, cumin, chaat masala and onion. Stir gently until the potatoes are evenly coated with the spices.

In a small bowl, whisk together the yoghurt, 1 tsp water and salt to taste. Gently stir the green chutney and the tamarind chutney into the potatoes, season with salt and transfer to a serving platter.

Sprinkle with sev, drizzle with the seasoned yoghurt, and garnish with pomegranate seeds and cilantro. If desired, season with more chaat masala and add more sev.

BOMBAY SANDWICH

Bombay Sandwich. Image credit: Chaat by Maneet Chauhan and Jody Eddy.

1 small russet potato

Unsalted butter at room temperature

2 slices white bread

Green chutney

Chaat masala

Cumin seeds, toasted

1 red beet, roasted, peeled, and cut into thick slices*

1 small cucumber, peeled and cut crosswise into thick rounds

½ bell pepper, sliced

1 small tomato, cut into thick slices

Generous handful of shredded white cheddar cheese

* Look for vacuum-sealed roasted beets in the produce department of grocery stores.

Place the potato in a saucepan and add water to cover by 3 inches. Bring to a boil over high heat, reduce the heat and simmer until the potato is tender, about 15 mins. Drain and once the potato is cool enough to handle, peel and slice lengthwise into ¼-inch thick slices.

Smear a generous amount of softened butter on both sides of each slice of bread and repeat the process with the chutney. Arrange the potato slices on one slice of bread and sprinkle with chaat masala and cumin. Top with the beet slices and sprinkle more chaat masala and cumin. Continue the layering with the cucumber, bell pepper and tomato, each seasoned with chaat masala and cumin before adding the next vegetable. Top with the other side of bread and smear the outside of each piece of bread with more butter.

Preheat a panini press or a heavy skillet. Toast the sandwiches in the panini press (or the skillet, using a spatula to press it down) until it’s golden brown and crispy. If toasting in a skillet, make sure to flip the sandwiches so both sides get golden brown. Place the sandwich on a plate, slice into quarters, and top with the shredded cheddar. Serve with green chutney on the side.

GREEN CHUTNEY

2 tbsp chana dal

½ tsp ground cumin roasted

½ tsp sugar

½ tsp kosher salt plus more to taste

1 tsp chaat masala

Pinch of hing

1 tbsp fresh lemon juice, plus more to taste

½ cup tightly packed fresh mint leaves

1 cup tightly packed fresh cilantro leaves

3 garlic cloves

3 serrano chiles, seeded

3-inch knob fresh ginger, peeled and coarsely chopped

Heat a cast iron pan over high heat until nearly smoking. Add the dal and roast, swirling the pan the entire time, until it takes on a light golden brown colour. Immediately transfer the dal to a bowl or a plate to prevent overtoasting.

In a food processor, combine the toasted dal and the rest of the ingredients and blend until quite smooth (it will still be a little chunky). Add water, 1 tbsp at a time, to achieve a thick consistency that holds together on a spoon and is not runny. Taste and season with additional salt and lemon juice according to taste.

TAMARIND CHUTNEY

Tamarind Chutney. Image credit: Chaat by Maneet Chauhan and Jody Eddy.

1 tbsp vegetable oil

1 tsp cumin seeds

1 tsp coriander seeds

1 tsp fennel seeds

1 tsp red chilli flakes

1 tbsp finely chopped fresh ginger

¼ cup golden raisins

¼ cup pitted dates, coarsely chopped

1 block seedless tamarind pulp, coarsely chopped

1 cup jaggery or dark brown sugar

1 tsp chaat masala

¼ tsp black salt (kala namak)

1 tsp ground ginger

Kosher salt

In a sauté pan, heat the oil until it glistens, about 2 mins.

Add the cumin, coriander, fennel and chile flakes and sauté until aromatic, about 2 mins.

Add the fresh ginger, raisins, dates, tamarind and jaggery, increase the heat to medium-high and bring to a boil. Reduce the heat to medium and cook until the sauce is thick and coats the back of a spoon, about 10 mins, stirring with a wooden spoon occasionally to prevent scorching and to encourage the flavours to mingle.

Remove the pan from the heat and stir in the chaat masala, black salt and ground ginger.

Transfer the chutney to a food processor or blender and blend on high speed until smooth.

Taste and season with salt. The chutney will keep in a covered container in the refrigerator for up to 2 weeks.

Chaat by Maneet Chauhan and Jody Eddy is published by Potter, $42.50.