KITCHEN TABLE
A RICH CULINARY TRADITION
Vina Patel shares authentic recipes she learned from generations of women before her in From Gujarat With Love (Pavilion, $40)
DHEBRA (BAJRA THEPLAS)
1 cup wholewheat flour
1/3 cup millet (bajra) flour
1/2 tsp ground turmeric
1 tbsp plus 1 tsp green chilli paste
1-1/2 tbsp sesame seeds, plus extra to serve
3/4 tsp ajwain seeds
1 tbsp brown sugar
1 tsp salt, or to taste
1-1/2 tsp ginger paste
4 tbsp ghee or oil, plus extra oil for cooking
1/3 cup plain full-fat yoghurt
1-1/2 cups fresh chopped fenugreek leaves (methi) washed and patted dry, or use finely chopped spinach leaves
Combine the flours, ground turmeric, green chilli paste, sesame seeds, ajwain seeds, sugar, salt and ginger paste in a large bowl. Add the ghee and yoghurt and mix well. Add the chopped fenugreek leaves and mix again. Knead the dough for 6-8 minutes until smooth, then cover the bowl tightly with a lid and set aside for 10 mins.
Knead a second time and divide the mixture into 8 equal-sized portions. Roll each into a ball and flatten slightly.
Roll each flattened ball between two sheets of parchment paper into discs about 5 inches in diameter, ensuring they are of even thickness.
Heat a large frying pan over medium heat. Once hot, add one tsp of oil to grease it. Place a disc of dough in the pan and cook for 1-1/2 to 2 mins., pressing down gently with a spatula until the underside has light brown spots. Flip, then drizzle 1/2 tsp of oil on top of the dhebra. Flip again, add another 1/2 tsp of oil and cook for 1 min. Remove from the pan and place on a plate. Repeat with remaining discs. Sprinkle with sesame seeds and serve with mango pickle or masala chai.
GUJARATI KADHI
3/4 cup plain full-fat yoghurt
1 tbsp besan
3 cups water
2 tbsp grated jaggery or sugar
1 tbsp ginger paste
1 tbsp plus 1 tsp green chilli paste
3/4 tsp salt, or to taste
1-1/2 tbsp ghee
3/4 tsp cumin seeds
2 dried red chillies
10-12 fresh curry leaves
1/4 tsp asafoetida
1 tbsp roughly chopped garlic scapes (optional)
1 Indian bay leaf
3 tbsp chopped coriander
Combine the yoghurt and besan in a large saucepan. Whisk until very smooth, then stir in the water. Add the jaggery, ginger paste, green chilli paste and salt. (The ginger may cause the mixture to split, but it’ll fix itself once it’s cooked.)
In a small frying pan, heat the ghee over medium heat. Add the cumin seeds. Once they begin to pop, add the dried red chillies, curry leaves and asafoetida. Mix well and cook for 5-7 seconds. Add this to the yoghurt-gram flour mixture and stir well to combine. Bring the mixture to boil and immediately reduce the heat to low. Cook for 20-22 mins.
Add the garlic scapes, if using, and the bay leaf and garnish with coriander.
Serve with rice, chapatis or pooris.
QUICK ELAICHI SHRIKHAND
1 cup strained yoghurt
1/2 cup Cool Whip
2 tbsp icing sugar
1/2 tsp ground cardamom
2-3 tbsp charoli or sliced pistachio or toasted almonds
2-3 tsp slightly crushed dried rose petals (optional)
1/2 tsp cardamom seeds, crushed (optional)
Place the strained yoghurt in a bowl and add the Cool Whip and icing sugar. Whisk well for 2-3 mins., until smooth. Add the ground cardamom and whisk until evenly incorporated.
Pour the mixture into a bowl and garish with the charoli or nuts, rose petals and cardamom if using. Place in the fridge for an hour before serving with pooris.