837 KM. 47 DAYS. AT THE END I FOUND MYSELF.

Dr Vicki Bismilla writes: I have a friend, Fawzia Docrat in British Columbia, whose energy, verve, stamina and commitment I admire. Like me, Fawzia was born in South Africa and is now Canadian. A retired teacher, Fawzia has many interests but the one that is awe-inspiring is her spiritual calm (and fitness) that has taken her twice on the incredible meditative Camino walking pilgrimage in Spain, in which participants walk an average of 22 km every day for two months. For this International Women’s Month of March, to emphasize the strong spirit of women everywhere, I have asked Fawzia to write about her Camino de Santiago pilgrim walk. Here is her experience, in her own words:

By FAWZIA DOCRAT

Why do we walk? We walk to run errands, to work, or simply to enjoy nature. Rarely do we think of it as transformative.

That changed for me when I embarked on my first Camino and, later, the Camino del Norte. These walks became journeys of discovery, simplicity, and connection.

My first Camino, the Camino Portuguese in May 2023, was a beautiful journey (approximately 274 km) through coastal Portugal and Spain. It was a joyous adventure with a friend, and I assumed it would be a once-in-a-lifetime experience.

However, for months afterward, the Camino Del Norte tugged at my heart. The Camino called to me endlessly, evoking a yearning for its simplicity, and I knew it was time to walk again. I returned to the Camino, embarking on the journey from mid-September to early- November 2024.

The Camino del Norte is an approximately 837 km route through northern Spain, starting in Irun and ending in Santiago de Compostela. It winds through stunningly diverse landscapes in the Basque Country, Cantabria, Asturias, and Galicia. Over 47 days, including six rest days, the route offered breathtaking ocean views, pastoral countryside, and charming villages. The experience was visceral, transformative, and filled with moments of awe.

The Camino is a very personal experience and allows for individual flexibility. Life commitments often influence the timeframe a pilgrim walks. Some pilgrims cover long distances (30-plus km) each day, thus completing the Camino in a shorter time, while others prefer a slower pace to embrace the spiritual, cultural, and scenic aspects of the journey, knowing they can return later to complete the journey, if they so choose. There is no “right” or “wrong” way to walk it. Each pilgrim shapes their own journey.

On the Camino, life narrows down to walking, eating, and sleeping. Some walk the Camino for spiritual reasons; others embark on the journey during transitional phases of their lives such as retirement, divorce, or other major life changes.

For me, the Camino was an adventure and offered a chance to reflect, connect and grow. Beauty can always be found even on the greyest, wettest of days. The rhythm of walking became meditative, allowing me to disconnect from distractions and focus on the present moment.

Long distance walking demands both stamina and perseverance. Being in good health, I didn’t expect any major issues, but I was aware of the challenges that awaited me on the Camino Del Norte.

Months before my departure, I began training to prepare myself for the journey. A few days a week, I put on my hiking shoes – the ones I planned to wear on the Camino – and headed out with my backpack. My training walks were between 10 and 15 km, covering all kinds of terrain, from flat pavement to steep hills. As weeks went by, I gradually increased the weight in my backpack until it reached its full load of 12 to 14 lbs. To push myself further, I completed several 20 km walks with my full pack, knowing these long days would mimic what was to come on the trail.

Blisters, knee pain and tendinitis are experienced by some on the Camino. Thankfully, the pharmacies in towns along the route are prepared to assist pilgrims. I was blessed to have avoided any health issues during my journey. A little foresight, training and listening to your body while walking can make this challenge achievable.

The Camino teaches gratitude for the small things – a break in a quiet village, a warm meal, and the kindness of strangers. The solitude of walking alone was balanced by the camaraderie of fellow pilgrims. It was a joyous experience to walk, talk, laugh and sing together with pilgrim friends. Sometimes we walked together in silent contemplation. I met people from various countries, each with their own story, and these encounters humbled me and deepened my gratitude for the blessings in my own life.

The initial stages of walking are purely physical and filled with anticipation for what lies ahead. Then, slowly, almost unawares, there’s a mind shift. The outer journey begins to reflect your inner journey. Some of it is inspired by conversations you’ve had with pilgrims along the way and some of it from the adventures you experience walking the path. By the end, you will have indelibly changed as a person.

Each day began with anticipation. I’d lace up my hiking shoes and set out, often not knowing exactly what the day would bring. The path could be difficult, but the ever-changing views, sights, fragrances, the touch of tree-trunks, the awakening of the senses, made it worth every step. Breaks at small cafés were welcome opportunities to rest, enjoy a café con leche, and connect with others. Each day also brought its challenges: steep ascents, rocky paths, stretches of rain and mud-soaked trails.

The terrain along the Del Norte is quite varied. There are steep hills to ascend and descend, large boulders and rocks, old Roman stone slabs, dirt and gravel trails, country roads and highways to cross, sandy beaches to walk along and lovely, serene, forested areas. All of them beautiful in their own way. Walking alone never felt lonely as I was often surrounded by life: cows, donkeys, and sheep mooed, brayed, and bleated at me cheerfully. I was soothed by the sound of flowing streams and the chimes of various birds serenading me in the forest. You absorb it all and wonder at the magnificence of creation! I cherished these moments of quiet connection with nature.

The Camino’s way markers – yellow arrows and scallop shells – guide pilgrims along the route. Even when I lost my way, there was always a friendly local or pilgrim to point me in the right direction.

Safety is paramount whether at home or travelling abroad, particularly when you’re a lone female.

Spain takes the well-being of pilgrims very seriously. Its commitment to pilgrims is evident in the support provided by resources such as the Alert Cops app, which ensures assistance in emergencies.

Locals have been known to go out of their way to help a pilgrim.

Most of my Camino was walked with a friend or two, however, the days that I walked alone I did not feel unsafe. It was a very rewarding and empowering experience. For times when reassurance is needed, it is perfectly normal to ask a fellow pilgrim to walk alongside you. Most pilgrims will readily offer support. That is the beauty of the camaraderie along the Camino de Santiago.

Food is one of the topics foremost on a pilgrim’s mind. The question is always: how far is the next café? Tapas, Spanish tortillas, patatas bravas, salads and seafood were staples along the way. I learned to carry snacks and water, as cafés could be hours apart.

One of the practical concerns for women walking the Camino is access to bathrooms. Where are they and how long until I reach one? For the most part, there are no “free” bathrooms on the Camino Del Norte. Most pilgrims rely on the cafes along the route, which allow bathroom access to paying customers. This was not a problem for us, as we often needed a drink and a snack. There are stretches on the Camino where cafes are few and far between. I vividly recall a day when I had walked 12 km and was still not close to a café. On days like these you need to be prepared to use the great outdoors. This is one of the many ways the Camino teaches you to adapt and embrace the journey, challenges and all.

Evenings were a time to rejuvenate. While some pilgrims stay in dormitory-style albergues (pilgrim hostels) due to lower costs and the advantage of communal meals, I opted for private accommodations, which offered much-needed comfort after the long days of walking. Pre-booking allowed me to focus on the journey itself rather than logistics. Part of the excitement was in planning my own Camino. For pilgrims needing support, there are several companies that organize the route, arrange accommodations, and transport luggage along the journey. 

Many pilgrims prefer to pack only the essentials required in their backpack allowing for independence and freedom of movement throughout the journey. Alternatively, some choose to carry a small daypack with the day’s necessities, such as water, snacks, and first aid, and pack another bag with extra items to send forward to their next destination using a luggage transfer service. The choice is dependent on ones needs.

As I neared the journey’s end, I felt the bittersweetness of excitement and sorrow. The Camino had become a little slice of heaven, a space where time seemed to slow, and life felt lighter. It taught me to appreciate a simpler way of living and left me eager to return. Walking the Camino del Norte was an experience I cherished every single day. It wasn’t just the stunning landscapes: it was the connections and quiet moments of introspection that made it unforgettable.

 For anyone considering a Camino, I can only say: take the leap. The Camino del Norte offers breathtaking beauty, warm hospitality, and a chance to reconnect with yourself and the world around you. It’s more than a walk; it’s a journey of the heart.