THE MAGIC IS IN THE MASALA

Timeless recipes – and ones with a modern twist – with spices that showcase Indian cuisine in unique ways from Masala by Anita Jaisinghani (Ten Speed press, $47).

 BLACK CHANA SALAD

1 cup dried black chana

3 tbsp olive oil

1 tsp cumin seeds

Pinch of asafoetida

1 tsp freshly ground black pepper

1 tsp black salt

2 tbsp amchur

4-5 Persian cucumbers, cubed

1 large mango, cubed

1 bunch cilantro, leaves and stems chopped (discard bottom  3  inches)

Juice of 1 lemon

Put the chana in a medium bowl and cover with cold water by up to 6 to 8 inches. Soak overnight. The next day, discard the soaking water and put the chana in a medium saucepan. Add 4 cups of fresh water and bring to a boil over high heat. Pour out the first water to remove the foam and impurities – if necessary, use a large strainer or colander. Add another 4 cups of water, bring to a simmer, then decrease the heat to low, and simmer for 1 to 1½ hours, adding more water if needed (until the chana is tender or squishy when pressed). There should always be enough water to submerge the chana. Turn the heat off and let the chana rest in the liquid for 20 to 30 minutes, then drain.

Heat the oil in a large frying pan over high heat and pop the cumin seeds. Immediately add the asafoetida followed by the chana, black pepper and black salt. Continue cooking until the masala evenly coats the chana. Take the pan off the heat, then stir in the amchur. Let the chana cool for 15 to 20 mins. Toss with or serve alongside the cucumbers, cubed mango, and cilantro and finish with a drizzle of lemon juice.

MASALA POPCORN

½ cup popcorn kernels

3 tbsp mustard oil

1 tsp sea salt

½ tsp ground turmeric

1 tbsp confectioners’ sugar

½ tsp red chilli powder

1 tbsp amchur

2-3 tbsp melted butter or ghee

Combine the popcorn kernels, mustard oil, salt and turmeric in a deep pot or Dutch oven with a tight- fitting lid over medium heat. Stir the kernels constantly until the first one pops. Immediately cover and cook. Once the popping sound begins, lower the heat, and once the sound subsides, turn the heat off. The whole process will take less than 5 mins. Immediately stir in the sugar, chilli powder, amchur and melted butter and serve.

PUNJABI CAULIFLOWER

1 med. cauliflower with leaves

¼ cup ghee

1 tsp black mustard seeds

1 cup minced white onion

1 tsp minced garlic

½ tsp ground turmeric

1½ tsp sea salt

1 tsp chilli powder

1 cup canned crushed tomatoes or 2 cups diced fresh tomatoes

2 tbsp ginger pureé

1 tsp garam masala

Cilantro leaves, chopped, for garnish

Cut the entire cauliflower, including the stem, into 2-inch florets and pieces. Very finely chop the green jacket/stem parts and set aside separately. The only inedible part of the cauliflower is the core, which is to be discarded.

In a shallow sauté pan, heat the ghee over high heat. Pop the mustard seeds, then immediately add the onion and minced cauliflower greens. Lower the heat to medium-high and cook until the onion is translucent or just slightly browned, 8 to 10 mins. Then stir in the minced garlic, cauliflower florets, turmeric and salt. Increase the heat to high again and cook for another 7 to 8 mins., until the cauliflower sweats and then begins to take on some colour.

Add the chilli powder, tomatoes and ginger pureé and bring to a simmer. Decrease the heat to low, cover and cook for 5 to 7 mins, until the cauliflower is fork tender and cooked through. Sprinkle the garam masala on top, turn the heat off, and let rest. Gently mix the cauliflower, garnish with cilantro and serve.

KULFI

3 cups whole milk

Pinch of saffron

One 14-oz can sweetened condensed milk

1 cup heavy cream

1 tsp ground green cardamom seeds

½ tsp ground mace

1 tsp khus essence or a few drops of vetiver essential oil

4 large egg yolks

½ cup chopped mixed raw nuts such as pistachio, cashews, almonds

In a medium heavy-bottom saucepan combine the whole milk and saffron. Place over high heat and bring to a boil, then lower the heat and simmer for 5 to 7 minutes, stirring continuously to prevent it from sticking to the bottom of the pan, until the milk has reduced a bit.

Add the condensed milk, heavy cream, cardamom, mace and khus and cook for another 2 to 3 minutes until the entire mixture comes to a boil.

Remove from the heat and add the egg yolks and whisk until smooth. Add the nuts, let the mixture cool, then pour it into the mould of your choice and freeze until solid. You can also freeze it in a shallow pan or small ramekins. The kulfi will keep in the freezer for up to three months.

Take the kulfi out 5 to 10 mins. before serving to soften it a bit and make it easier to remove and cut.